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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.